star (2012-06-11)
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Christophe Peyrus and Francois Julien had only recently assembled the majority of their 2007 reds when I tasted with them in December, and that collection is as exciting as past experience with Clos Marie and recognition of the potential of this vintage would lead one to expect. “Ripeness came early and homogeneously,” says owner-winemaker Peyrus. “The harvest was very rapid, and the evolution of the wines has been precocious.” Yet even under these conditions, potential alcohol seldom exceeded 14.5% even for the blocks of Grenache, a circumstance Peyrus attributes to his biodynamic methods of cultivation. He is also a partisan of vendange entier (the inclusion of whole clusters in red wine fermentation – in his case generally at least 50%) and says the stems were thoroughly ripe (i.e. lignified) in 2007. It’s a measure of the excitement that within fifteen years, this estate has ascended from obscurity to the top echelon of French wine addresses. There is never a lot of new wood in this dripping-wet cellar, although much of what there is, interestingly, comes from Austrian barrel-maker Franz Stockinger. (The 2007 reds had never been sulfured when I tasted them – that happens here only at bottling, and then only very judiciously.)
2007 Clos Marie Cuvee Simon Pic St Loup
RATING: ( 92-93 ) points
The Clos Marie 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup Simon – a blend of around equal parts Grenache and Syrah, with perhaps 10% Mourvedre – displays ripe, distilled black fruits, subtle smokiness, resinous herbs, crushed stone, graphite, salt spray, peony floral notes, and a deep, marrow-like meaty richness from nose to finish. A formidable and palpable sense of extract backs up the depth of flavor on display in a wine marrying richness with finesse, refreshment, and minerality to a degree that makes it hard to believe it represents the “lower end” of the Clos Marie line-up. But then, it is precisely such a marriage that Peyrus says represents the goal in all of his wines. This long-finishing beauty should reward at least 3-5 years of cellaring.
2007 Clos Marie Pic Saint Loup Metairies du Clos Vieilles Vignes
RATING: ( 93-94+ ) points
Initial overtones of game and chocolate in the 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup Metairies du Clos Vieilles Vignes – Carignan and Grenache with a small measure of Syrah – are in part a legacy of its slightly oxidative state prior to sulfuring. Beneath that, and on the palate, is a wonderful saturation of ripe black raspberry and cassis, decadently sweet, lily-like floral perfume, aromatic tropical woods, and black tea. The striking minerality here is saline and iodine-like, which perfectly supports the wine’s almost explosively bright and vivacious back end (and this with no added sulfur!). Palpably high extract and palate-staining persistence are here allied to a refinement of tannin and correspondingly caressing texture that goes beyond the already remarkable pleasures of the cuvee Simon. I imagine this will be worth cellaring for at least a decade
2007 Clos Marie Les Glorieuses Pic St Loup
RATING: ( 96-97 ) points
The 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup Les Glorieuses – Grenache and a small amount of Syrah vinified together and with all of their stems – originates in the estate’s oldest vines, planted in an approximately four acre parcel with deep, clay-rich soil. Blackberry, cassis, cedar, juniper, marjoram, and iris in the nose usher in a palate of implosive concentration and a palate-staining persistence (not to mention a bloody depth) worthy of Lady Macbeth. Dark chocolate, peat, iodine, marrow, fruit pits, and crushed stones give this a dark profundity, while sheer energy, salinity, and fresh fruit intensity lend invigorating brightness and an unforgettable savor. The tannins here are so fine-grained that only the wine’s sheer density testifies to their enormity. This should be cherished for a decade or even two by any wine lovers lucky enough to acquire bottles.
though, because this is going to be a show-stopper in a few years – even in the short term it may reveal a lot more nuance – and is likely to reward 12-15 years’ cellaring.
2006 Clos Marie Cuvee Simon Pic St Loup
RATING: ( 91 ) points
The 2006 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup Simon smells of black cherry and purple plum sprinkled with nutmeg and cinnamon. Sweetly fruited and thickly rich on the palate, it nonetheless preserves an admirable sense of clarity, juicy refreshment, and complementary iodine and wet stone mineral suggestions, even if it misses the formidable sense of underlying extract or multiple facets of the dramatic 2007. Peyrus thinks this is shutting down after bottling. Wait two years to enjoy it.

A serio to nie wiem jak tam roczniki, ale chyba walnięte te flaszki trafiliśmy, tylko ciężko nadążyć z tą wadą, bo co im się stało?
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